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Every Tuesday at 7:42 a.m. and 5:18 p.m., Tom Harte shares a few thoughts on food and shares recipes. A founder of “My Daddy’s Cheesecake,” a bakery/café in Cape Girardeau, a food columnist for The Southeast Missourian, and a cookbook author, he also blends his passion for food with his passion for classical music in his daily program, The Caffe Concerto.

Brunch is a Culinary Hybrid

destinationhancock.com

The word brunch is a portmanteau of breakfast and lunch, indicating a meal which combines elements of both.  The term first appeared in print in 1895 in an article whose author proposed its virtue thusly: “By eliminating the need to get up early on Sunday, brunch would make life brighter for Saturday-night carousers.”

But brunch is foremost a culinary hybrid rather than a linguistic one.  As William Grimes puts it, “It’s neither fish nor fowl nor good red herring, although all three can wind up on the same plate.”

And therein lies the problem.  If you’re not careful, you might not get the most out of your buffet experience, ending up feeling merely full but not fully satisfied.  In other words, it’s important to attack a buffet strategically.

As one with years of experience navigating buffet lines, I offer the following five principles for getting the most our of any brunch.

#1.  Eat in courses.  Resist the temptation to pile all kinds of food on your plate at once.  Rather, use a separate plate for each course.  You’ll appreciate each type of food more that way.  And always use the big dinner plates for every course, especially dessert.

#2.  Avoid ordinary “breakfast” fare.  Why waste money and tummy space on mere scrambled eggs, bacon, or pancakes?  That’s what the IHOP is for.

#3.  Beware the salads.  Brunches are places to indulge.  Save the health food for another day.  Use greens only as a garnish.

#4.  Be selective.  This is the time to load up on things you don’t usually get at home, like expensive seafood or prime cuts of beef.  For example, once, years ago, when I spotted the rack of lamb on the buffet at the Willows in Honolulu, the chicken lost all its appeal.

#5.  Wear Sansabelt slacks or a muumuu.  This recommendation is self-explanatory.

+++++Brunch Panzanella+++++

Substituting fruit for the traditional tomatoes in panzanella makes it perfect for brunch.  This recipe is adapted from the cookbook “At Home with Michael Chiarello.”

3/4 cup toasted sliced almonds
2 tablespoons butter
1 bay leaf
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1 tablespoon brandy
2 tablespoons lemon juice, divided
1/2 cup orange juice
3/4 teaspoon ground sea salt, divided
8 cups cubed Italian bread
2 pints sliced strawberries
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
3/4 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup blueberries
1/2 cup torn mint leaves
1 cup vanilla yogurt

Melt butter over high heat until browned.  Carefully add bay leaf.  Lower heat to medium, add brown sugar, and stir until melted.  Carefully add brandy and 1 tablespoon lemon juice.  Cook 15 seconds.  Add orange juice and 1/4 teaspoon salt.  Stir until liquid reduces and becomes syrupy.  Toss bread with half of brown butter mixture and spread in single layer on a baking sheet.  Bake at 350 degrees until golden, 15-20 minutes, turning occasionally.  Mix strawberries with granulated sugar, remaining tablespoon lemon juice, vinegar, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt.  Allow to macerate 5-10 minutes.  Plump raisins in hot water and drain.  Combine bread, remaining syrup, almonds, raisins, blueberries, and mint.  Serve with the strawberries and yogurt.
 

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